HYI Working Paper Series: Wu Xu

从《容美纪游》看清代容美土司的食物系统与逃逸文化 [Food and the Escape Culture of Rongmei Chieftainship in the Qing Dynasty] (Wu Xu, East China Normal University)

摘要:南方民族食物系统中的刀耕火种、杂粮、野菜等一直被看成生产力低下的标志。本文以逃逸文化为视角,发现清代容美土司的看似“原始”的食物系统承担有重要的逃逸文化功能。土司的食物系统通过食物生产、制作和餐食结构上的特有习俗来消解水稻的主粮地位、树立与平原国家保持距离的边界符号、消除余粮积累,维持其政治经济上的“游耕-游治”模式(流动性),以达到既能维持土司统治又能逃离平原国家控制的目的。 
关键词:食物系统;逃逸文化;容美土司 

Abstract: Shifting cultivation, side crops and wild edible plants are considered markers of primitiveness, which are often integrated parts of the food systems of many minority groups in south-central China. This article examines the historical materials in the 1700s concerning the seemingly primitive food system in Rongmei Chiefdom, central China, in the perspective of escape culture. Through marginalizing rice foods and rice farming, avoiding accumulation of grains, and using “unusual” foods as markers for the chiefdom-state boundary, and with the binary system of “shifting cultivation and shifting administration,” the chiefdom had successfully maintained its own ruling while escaping the control of state (the Qing government). 
Keywords: food system, escape culture, Rongmei chiefdom 

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